Speaking as a non-GC, although I have been christened Greek-Orthodox
and have a Cyprus ID (so you could call me GC by proxy), I thought the north was stunning. The scenery is far more dramatic than the south (although some spots in Troodos, particularly the view from Makarios' tomb are awesome). Kyrenia is almost exactly the same as the photos from pre-1974, but it did have a little bit of a wild-west feel
about it for some reason. It might have been the dodgy-looking British bar owner who was overly friendly that gave that impression.
I certainly didn't find the north strewn with Turkish or TRNC flags. I guess if you look on the flipside and view southern Cyprus from the perspective of someone crossing from the north, you'd see the same though. Coming from England, the place where flag-waving is frowned upon, Cyprus is a veritable orgy of Cypriot, Greek and EU flags. In TC eyes, this could be construed as a 'ya boo sucks, we're Greek and in the EU, so up yours'
. Of course you had the ubiquitous Ataturk statues etc., but nothing quite as grotesque as the Makarios monstrosity outside the Archbish's palace in Lefkosia.
Haven't yet been to Mesaoria, but had a good view
across the plain when cresting Pendedactylos. Most fascinating was the TRNC flag on the mountain. When you get up close it's actually just painted rocks, and far less visible than from a distance... you know it's as if they designed it to be viewed from afar only
The taxi driver who took me from Ledra to Kyrenia was nice and friendly and spoke a smattering of Greek and English. His driving standards left a lot to be desired, but certainly nothing worse than the average trip in downtown Lefkosia.