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Truffles

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Truffles

Postby kafenes » Wed Oct 14, 2009 12:19 am

One man and his dog went to find some truffles…
By Charles Charalambous

THE AGRICULTURAL Research Institute (ARI) has invited a truffle expert from Greece to train staff in using a dog to hunt truffles, in anticipation of the final stages of a four-year experiment to cultivate the highly desirable – and valuable – fungi in Cyprus.

Greek truffle expert Panayiotis Panayiotides gave a lecture on truffle-hunting techniques to ARI staff in Nicosia yesterday, and will give further instruction on cultivating and hunting truffles over the next two days at the two sites where the experiment is being conducted.

Head of the ARI truffle experiment Sophocles Gregoriou told the Mail: “We’re all beginners when it comes to harvesting truffles, so we need this training.” He said that so far the experiment has run for three and a half years, and the initial signs are that it has been successful. This means that the first “fruits” of the fungi may be ready to be harvested next summer.

The experiment was given the green light by the Agriculture Ministry in November 2005, with a view to encouraging the cultivation of truffles in conjunction with organically-cultivated olive trees. Given Cyprus’ wealth of excellent soil quality and growing conditions, the ARI is confident that Cyprus can produce high quality truffles and tap into the lucrative European and world markets.

Truffles are the fruit of subterranean Tuber and Terfezia fungi, which grow among the roots of certain types of trees. Not all truffles are edible, but certain types are highly prized for their unique pungent flavour, and due to their rarity can fetch huge prices, especially in France and Italy. This year, spring truffles have been selling for €250-350 per kilo, while winter truffles can go for €650 to €1,100 per kilo.

Like all fungi, they lack chlorophyll, so they cannot process the sugars and starches necessary for their own survival. To make up for this, they attach themselves to certain plants types of tree and bush – favouring oak and beech trees – in a relationship called “mycorrhizal symbiosis”, which benefits both fungus and host.

This process lends itself to attempts at cultivation, whereby the roots of young trees – olive trees in the local experiment – are impregnated with truffle spores. Contrary to various myths surrounding the elusive fruit, truffles can be cultivated, with the first successful attempts being recorded in 1808.

Panayiotides has a long working relationship with the privately-owned Italian plant nursery Raggi Vivai Tartuficoltura, which started the production of mycorrhized truffle plants in the 1980s. Panayiotides has helped the successful cultivation of truffles in various parts of the Greek mainland and islands.

Truffle hunters in Italy and France use pigs and mixed-breed dogs to sniff out truffles, as both have a highly-developed sense of smell, are intelligent, and can be trained easily. Dogs are preferred to pigs, because pigs love to eat the truffles they find. Dogs are also much easier to get into the back seat of a car.



Copyright © Cyprus Mail 2009


http://www.cyprus-mail.com/news/main.php?id=48273

Also see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tuber_(genus)

Can someone please explain what these are and has anyone ever tasted one? Would like to know more about them.




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Postby Nikitas » Wed Oct 14, 2009 1:23 am

Kafene,

Afte trying the much touted truffle a couple of times, once as a guest of a large Italian company, I am not impressed. At the Italian dinner it was cooked by the best chef in the region, so the lack of enthusiasm cannot be blamed on the cooking. The stuff tastes like stale garlic.

But as we say, peri orexeos kolokythopita, so to each his own. Also, despite the so called cultivation of truffles the big money makers in this game are truffle hunters with their dogs. It seems that cultivation has a ways to go before it can become an income earner. It will be interesting to see if people will steal truffle dogs like they now steal hunting dogs.
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Postby CBBB » Wed Oct 14, 2009 6:57 am

I have to disagree with Nikitas, truffles taste nothing like stale garlic. The flavour is absolutely heavenly!

Like Nikitas I also first tasted this delight as a guest of an Italian company in Rome, and was served raviolini con tartufi (little ravioli with truffle), fantastic! It only requires a couple of slivers of the stuff to give it's unique flavour to an appropriate dish.

I am going to get a dog and start training it immediately. Anyone know where they are carrying out this experiment?
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Postby kafenes » Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:24 am

Thanks Nikitas and CBBB. I wonder where I can try this stuff. Is it available in Cyprus?
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Postby CBBB » Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:50 am

You would need to go to a very up-market delicatessen, Il Paesano in Nicosia would probably have some in oil and they definitely have truffle oil (I needed some for a recipe). Truffle oil is a light olive oil that has been infused with the flavour from truffles. You could try asking one of the flashier hotels where they get it (if they do), the Anassa possibly.

Don't forget you only need a few grams as it is very powerful (and bloody expensive).
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Postby kafenes » Wed Oct 14, 2009 9:27 am

Thanks CBBB, I wil ask a couple of friends I have who are chefs in 5 star hotels.
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Postby purdey » Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:45 pm

My wife is a big truffle fan. She buys truffles (not expensive) from Umbria and shaves it on scrambled eggs. Nikitas you may like to try grilled woodcock also shaved with black truffle.
By the way my wife's advise is never grate a truffle always shave it very finely.
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Postby CBBB » Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:47 pm

Sounds good with the scrambled eggs.
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Postby insan » Wed Oct 14, 2009 9:16 pm

Very interesting, indeed. It's the first time I've heard abt this delicacy. :?

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Postby insan » Wed Oct 14, 2009 9:44 pm

CBBB wrote:Sounds good with the scrambled eggs.


Here they made. Looks delicous. :D

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