I lived in Larnaka for a quite lengthy period between 1980 and 1984. During this time I had the privilege to visit the occupied area several times with the UN. I went to Kyrenia, Bellapais, (the other side of) Lefkosia, Ammochostos, Salamis and some smaller villages. The TC's were very friendly in general (typical Cypriot hospitality) and even one Turkish soldier (Süleyman) was very nice to us (possibly the brown nosing kind sucking up to the UN
). I haven't met any 'settlers', at least none that said they were one, so I can't say how they are towards visitors. I haven't been to the occupied area since then. But I almost took my family to see what can be seen of Varosha the other week. The youngest one was in a bad mood though so we postponed the visit.
In the North there are many beautiful places. However, if I was you, I would never ever consider moving there until the island is reunited and the mainland Turks are gone. Especially the troops. Buying property in the 'TRNC' now is a major no-no. It's immoral and it's stupid. Even buying genuine TC property is a risky game in my humble opinion. I would never engage in a game best described as 'Turkish Roulette'. Brits who wants to make a 'killer deal' allowing themselves to be charmed by a smiling thief will regret their stupidity and immorality some day.
Also... even if you're not a believer you're most likely the product of a Christian nation. Would you feel comfortable living in Muslim territory or would you feel like a stranger in a strange land? Visiting is one thing, to actually live there is another. It's not Saudi Arabia, but it's quite different from what you're used to I'm sure. Perhaps you would feel more 'at home' in the Greek Orthodox parts? Perhaps you want to live in 'Little Britain' but with sun instead of rain? Then the Brit enclaves in Pafos could be your best bet.
I would strongly discourage you from buying property in the occupied areas. So would your government!
I highly recommend the RoC (aka South). If you're going to relocate to Cyprus now, before a possible solution, you really have no other option than to move to the RoC. If you want a clean conscience that is. And even if you couldn't care less about what's wrong and what's right you should think about the possible (most likely) future financial problems you'll run into when the GC who rightfully owns the property/land is knocking on your front door.
I've read posts about GC's treating Brits with disrespect... perhaps they have treated the GC's with disrespect to begin with? Act like a colonial master and you'll be met with contempt. Be friendly and nice, treat people like the equals they are and chances are 99.9% that you'll be treated the same way. There is a minimum of 0.1% arseholes in every country worldwide. Sadly it's inevitable that you'll run into one sooner or later.
You must understand that 1878-1960 had an effect not easily forgotten by the Cypriots. Not to mention the games played by the UK once Cyprus became independent. Brits and Americans have always played games worldwide and it's easy to tell why they are disliked by default in some parts of the world. By being a good person showing interest in other cultures and treating strangers with respect you will break through that barrier of distrust quite easily. The ball is in your court.
Good luck!
