Cyprus-Forum.com

[Kikapu]

This is the original “Report” from “Kikapu’s time in Cyprus” thread
in the “General Chat” on www.Cyprus-Forum.com

Page 1.


This trip to Cyprus was in the making for over a year. I had intentions going last year, in 2006, just before joining the Cyprus Forum. I was discouraged from making that trip, and after 42 years of not going to Cyprus, I gave up on the idea, ever returning again. However, having spent a year on the Forum, I gained a new momentum to make the trip, so earlier this year, I asked the Forum members, to advice me on various questions, that were a concern to me. This started a long negative debate between myself and VP mostly, as to why I would visit the RoC at all, since my new country now was called "TRNC". I was warned of all the negatives and even sent bad wishes for my trip to Cyprus, which was to start in mid April. Needless to say, I had a lot on my mind as the days came closer and closer. Finally, the time of truth was here and there was no turning back.

The day of departure did not start well. Our connecting train had broken down somewhere, so we had to divert to Zurich, before going to Zurich airport. Got there in time to check in and while at the gate, I realised that I did not have the house keys with me. Upon calling my girlfriends mother to go and check if the keys were on the front door, and sure enough, they were. After connecting in Frankfurt to Larnaca, it was the longest 3 1/2 hours flight I ever had. I was practicing in my mind how I would react to each possible incident with the airport officials if they started giving me shit. Mrfromng had one time wrote, that he was not treated with respect, so I was prepared to get into a verbal match with anyone that were to flex their "official muscle". At long last the plane had landed in the early hours of 2 AM. Coming down the stairs from the plain and actually stepping on Cypriot ground was an emotional experienced, that I kept to my self from others. After 43 years of absence, I was once again home. Then the bus brought us to the terminal. As we walked to the immigration, I was greeted by a quiet "Hello" by the officer. My passport (British) was checked and given back without an incident. It felt like a little anti climax really, but was glad to get through there without any problems, because, according to Zan and VP, I had plenty of problems that was waiting for me, as long as I was going to be in the Roc.

Next we went to get our rental car, so after locating the Agent, paper work was done and with a map and instructions on how to get to our Hotel in Larnaca, which was only 6 kilometres away, we were on the way. It was almost 3 AM, and soon we ran into a police checkpoint. We were directed to pull to the side and stop. Now for sure, VP will prevail with his prediction on TC's being mishandled by GC's, so I thought. I stepped out of the car and was approached by 2 police officers. I gave them my driver’s license, and when asked where I was from, I said Switzerland, to try and conceal my identity. At that very moment, it was time to test VP's predictions, so I told the officer that I was actually a Cypriot and that we had just landed and was on our way to the hotel. With my "Turkish" name being very evident on my drivers licence, I expected some "power play" from them, but again not to be. He told me they were checking for drunk drivers and was allowed to go, with fresh directions from them to our hotel.

Once at the hotel, I had my girlfriend fill in the registration card, since the hotels were all booked under her name, to once again, to conceal my identity. But I was asked to show my passport also. So much for that smart idea. Once again, no problems. We were told where to park, and was wished good night, which was about 3.30 AM. I immediately got on the hotels coin operated computer, to cancel the second rental car that I booked with the same rental company, under my girlfriends name, to be picked up that afternoon. Once again, I was concerned what these GC might do to anyone with a Turkish sounding name. I was afraid they might just say, "Sorry Mr. Kikapu, but we cannot find your reservation". Therefore, we made a back up reservation, so that we would not be charged an arm and a leg for a on the spot car rental charges. If you called me a paranoid before going to Cyprus and soon after we landed there, I would say that you were correct. This was all due to statement made by some of our Partitionist members on the forum.

Page 2.

At midday we had finally woken up but breakfast that we paid for (Bed & Breakfast) was over 2 hours earlier so it was time to get up and start exploring Cyprus. After having something to eat at the promenade, by the Larnaca Marina, we visited the Larnaca's Castle / Fort, then to the Turkish sector. We visited the Al Kebir Mosque, which was under repairs, but was wide open with no one there. I was thinking to my self, why were there no graffiti on the walls or damage to inside by the Nationalist GC. As we walked around the corner, I could hear Turkish being spoken. Again, I was warned by Lana not to speak Turkish while visiting Cyprus, so not to create any problems for ourselves. So we approached these elderly gentlemen, about 4 of them. They were in fact 1 TC, 2 GC's and 1 Armenian. So I joined in the conversation, explaining to them who I was and my purpose in Cyprus. I asked them if there were any problems for the TC's living in Larnaca, which the TC said, " No problems at all, and that they got along just fine". He had a small shoe shop, and offered me any assistance that I may need, while in Larnaca. He also spoke Greek, who was originally from "Tahtagali", a name of an area that I remember hearing when I was a child in Cyprus. It may be in Nicosia. Soon after, another man, a TC came on his moped to join in the conversation. We then visited the St. Lazarus Church.

As we walked through the Turkish sector, seeing some old houses, some occupied and some were empty, I was beginning to feel much more at ease with myself, of being a TC in a GC dominated part of Cyprus. But I had to keep my guard up, because soon or later, VP's prediction would come true and my trip to my Birth Country, would turn to crap.

That evening we had our first Fish Meze at the restaurant called "Varoshiotis". After the meal, we had a good long walk back to our hotel, even going through some dark alleys, without any concern to our safety at all. It had taken less than a full day being in Cyprus, to realise that all the negatives fed on the forum by the Partitionist, was falling apart, piece-by-piece.

Next day I woke up with a different attitude. I had lost almost all of my anxiety and concerns. It was also my 52nd Birthday. I don't remember, ever having celebrated my birthday as a child, my first 9 year in Cyprus, so for me, this was going to be my "First Birthday" in Cyprus. It was time to start enjoying my country of Birth and be myself. I wasn't going to hide my identity any longer. It was time to be a "True Cypriot" again. After getting my Birthday present, a Digital Camera, it was time to have our first Cypriot breakfast.

After breakfast we drove to visit the "Hala Sultan Mosque" by Larnaca Airport. Then we drove to a little village called "Lefkara". It was a very nice place and got to talk to a shop owner who were GC's but moved back here from the UK. He was pleased that I had come back to Cyprus after 43 years of being away. We had lunch there and then drove back to Larnaca, through the "back roads".

That evening we went to have dinner at a Meze Tavern but was told that they would open after 8.30 PM. I got talking with the owner and told him about myself and that it was my birthday. He reserved a table for us. When we came to the restaurant, which is called the "The Black Turtle", the owner introduced me to his GC friend and his party of 6, who was also celebrating his 50th, which was few days earlier. We talked for few minutes, knowing who I was and little bit of my past. As the evening got underway, with great live Greek music, we were told by the owner that his friend was paying for our bottle of wine. I went over a shook his hand. Soon after, he cut his birthday cake and sent over some for us. Again, I went over and shook his hand. We stayed until 1.00 AM. The Food was great and the Music was fantastic. It was the perfect 52nd Birthday evening. I was beginning to feel at home more and more, and only after 2 days being in Cyprus. All of my fears of being amongst all these GC's were now becoming a distant memory.




Page 3.



Now the time had come to explore more of Cyprus, so we drove to Cape Kiti, near Larnaca, before going to visit Stavrovouni Monastery. Only men are allowed into the Monastery, so the women can only visit the gift shop or just remain at the parking area. I was told that the women might arouse the Monks, as not to allow them inside. I did not see the Monk in the gift shop complaining too much about women being in there!! I wonder if he drew the short straw for that duty!!

While we were up there, which must be at least 1,000 meters high, I could see the mountains in the distance toward Nicosia. Then I was able to make out a rectangular shape of a white shade with the naked eye. We are talking about almost 40 kilometres away, as the crow flies. I know I have a 120% vision, but even I was amazed, that I was looking at the "TRNC" flag on the Pentadaktylos Mountain. I knew it was big, but to be seen from 40 Kilometres away, just blew me away.

We then drove to Pyle / Pile and stopped to have a Cypriot Coffee at a TC owned cafe directly in front of the UN-129 post. Once again, I asked many question to the owner regarding how they get along with the GC, which as you all know, is a mixed village. He said that they have no problems at all, and said that most people who were there playing tavla, were in fact GC's with some TC's. I was not allowed to take any pictures however, so we walked toward the hill, where there were Turkish and a "TRNC" flag as well as an ATATURK’s cutout, with his famous walking stance. For the first time I felt the Turkish Army's occupying force's presence. I can't tell you how disgusted I was, that they would put a cutout of ATATURK on Cypriot soil, and into the face of the GC's. What was the purpose of that, I wondered to myself. I can understand an occupying force having their flag there, but ATATURK. In the past I had visited ATATURK’s resting place in Ankara as a child and as an adult, but I was not very happy at all, seeing his cutout there on the hill, overlooking Pyle/pile. We then drove down the road and had a meal at a TC run restaurant, called the "Maksim". Again I had some conversation with the people there, and was told, that there were no problems living there with the GC's.

Next day we headed to Nicosia. We made a brief stop at my mother’s village “Aredhiou” several miles South of Nicosia. I really do not have any recollection as to what it looked like 43 years ago, but I knew for sure, it had changed quite a bit.

My trip to Cyprus was mainly to solve some problems regarding my mothers land. I won't bore with all the details, but it is a little complex. Not because of the RoC Government, but the fact, all the deeds are in my Grandfathers name and the living siblings of my mother are living in the "TRNC" having “exchanged” those deeds to obtain GC land. I'll write more on that later on. I had arranged to meet with a GC lawyer a month before arriving who is handling our case. After meeting with him in Nicosia for an hour, it was time to get some information from the Land Registry Department, which the lawyer warned me, that might take me all day. I decided to leave it for another day.

We went inside Nicosia's walls where our hotel was. We then walked the whole length of the "Green Line". It was a very depressing experience, seeing all those empty buildings and shops. I saw many metal rolled door shops, just like the one my uncle had for his carpenter shop which I had spent a lot of time as a kid, and even lived in one after we were released, after a week of captivity by the GC's during the 1963 civil war. To make the whole scene even more real was the fact, there were lots and lots of carpenter shops there now. It brought back many memories of my childhood. I only wished I knew which one was my uncle’s shop. This place was such an active and vibrant place, even 43 years ago, but now, along the "Green Line", it felt like a Grave Yard. We walked back and stopped and talked with the GC guard at the Ledra Street checkpoint, where the wall was taken down recently. There was a small room there where pictures of the war victims were on display. It was a sad memorial of what has happened to us, as citizens of Cyprus.


Page 4.

Next day we had rain in Nicosia so I spent some time on the Internet, free of charge at the hotels computer room. By early afternoon, we ventured outside to get some information as to where a school was, where about 700 TC's were kept as prisoners for a week, in the break out of the conflict in 1963. As an 8 year old and my family of 9, were amongst the 700. I was given the name of the school by a Forum Member before departing to Cyprus. I also needed to know where the Land Registry Department was as well as the District Office. The Hotel staff did not know where these places were so the next best place was to pay a visit was to the local Tourist Information Office which is very near Ledra Street. I have just noticed, it is spelt Lidras Street, so don't confuse it with Ledra Palace. Up to this point, speaking English was a major plus in the RoC, as most people spoke English. Some better than others, but was always enough, to communicate. I was also very impressed with the quality of the roads and Highways. Road signs were the best of all. It was very easy to find one's way around, because of good signs, giving you directions to anywhere we drove in Cyprus. However, the street signs were too small to read while driving in towns so often we made many u-turns to go where we wanted to go.

The Tourist board was very knowledgeable and made three large circles on our city map, as to where these places we wanted to go. We had a good laugh later as I was imitating the lady to my girlfriend afterwards. The lady would say, " Yes that place exists and it's somewhere in this circle". So, we had three circles on the map, but no real address. It was time to buy a more detailed map of Nicosia so directly opposite the Tourist Information Office was a gift shop. The owner came to me and said, "My shop is nice, no"? I said, "Yes, it is very nice”. Then he asked me where I was from, and after saying Cyprus, we got talking about the Cyprus problems. He was 43 years old, but looked 10 years older who was also from Kaimakli / Kaymakli. He was also a twin, like my self. He said, we like the TC's but we don't like the Turks. I told him that I understood his feelings. I expressed to him of what had happened to us in 1963, which he was sadden by this. My girlfriend bought some cards as well as some small things as gifts and a detailed map of Nicosia with all the Government offices plotted.

It was already late in the afternoon and knowing that Government offices close at 2.30 PM, we headed out to find the School. The school was in Strovolos, in the district of Nicosia and named " Kykkos Female Lyceum" which is next to Cyprus College / Europa College. There were 2 schools there with the same name, except one was "A" and the other had "B". It was the school that had the "B", that fitted the description I had made of previous writings of our captivity. The school was closed for the day but one was able to walk into the courtyard. There were workers working on the building where women and children were kept during our captivity, which was the Gymnasium back then. Because of construction on this building, it was cordoned of, so that I could not get a closer look. There was no one to ask questions, so we left. We then drove to Kimakli / Kaymakli, which is where I'm from. It was much more built up than I expected. It turns out, where we lived, in Küçük Kaymakli, was either in the buffer zone or even in the "TRNC", so there was not much to remember of my past from here, so we left.

We then went back to the city and went to Debenham's store on Lidras Street, to go up to the tower, to get a better look at the other side, the "TRNC". We only had 10 minutes before closing, but managed to see few things. What was very forcefully was in our view, was the flags on the mountain. I could now see the Turkish flag as well as the monstrous "TRNC" flag that I saw from the Stavrovouni Monastery, some 40 kilometres away. I can say, that it was the worst kind of "Graffiti" I have seen on and natural settings, even bypassing the faces of Presidents of Mount Rushmore in the USA. It was a total disrespect for all citizens of Cyprus. One would have to be complete supporter of Human Right Violators, to even feel good about having that "Graffiti" on the mountain. If I had a hard spot for Partitionist before, it was now getting even harder. Anyone who enjoys those "Graffiti" on the mountain, is no Cypriot as far as I was concerned. It was an overwhelming support for the occupiers of the North, and that's where their allegiance lies. I had lost respect for any so-called TC’s, who would welcome those flags on the mountain.

Once again, we made another round, by walking along the "Green Line", until we came upon a what seem to be a very small restaurant called the ZANETTOS. It was a Tavern, with Meze only. It was a little bit like the Dr. Who's Telephone Box. It Looked small on the outside but big on the inside. As always, when ever we went to GC restaurants, we were greeted in Greek and when I told them that I did not speak Greek, they would say, "Yes but, you look like a Cypriot". I would tell them that I was and the conversation then would last about 10 minutes, of my life story, the compact version. The restaurant was empty and was encouraged to make a reservation. I thought for sure, she must be joking. It was already 7 PM and the place was empty which held around 100. We reluctantly made the reservation and went to visit the Hammam, which was just around the corner and the Mosque next to the Hammam.

We returned back to the restaurant and was still mostly empty, but within half an hour or so, the place was packed. Great food but did not try the snails.



Page 5.


Next day we were determined get few things done before driving to our next town, which was to be Paphos. We first went to the District office to try and get a Birth Certificate for myself. I really did not need on, but as long as I was here, why not. There were quite a lot of TC's there, mostly with someone who spoke Greek or English to help them out. I asked the person what I needed and was sent to certain door number upstairs. I told the lady what I wanted, and she said, fill these forms and go to the Court to get one. I said, is this for just for the TC's or GC's also. She was not a patient person. She once again said, " Here, read what’s on the window”. There were 7 steps to get one's Birth Certificate. I did not want to spend any more time, so we left. It turns out, every citizen has to be sworn in at the court house, to get a Birth Certificate, as suppose to go to "Court".

We then went to the Kykkos "B" school again, which was just down the road from the District Office. This time there were students ( Boys & Girls) in the court yard. I went to the main office, which was next to the parking area. After confirming it was the correct school, I began to ask the teacher in her 50's, if she knew anything about the school's past. She was on her way home or something, but was interested in my story and my time spent there. We got talking politics, and she was saying how young GC's people of today did not care about unification, and that they were more interested in studying abroad or their cars and girlfriends and boyfriends. She got a laugh when I told her that it was the parents fault for giving their kids too much money. Perhaps they would get more interested, once they inherit any land that their parents owned, in the North. After 20 minutes holding her there, she said, "Look, those were the sad days of 1963, so get on with your life and forget all that". "Any more questions, I must go now" then she left.

I walked into the court yard to take a closer look and due to heavy winds the night before, the fence around the Gymnasium was knocked down, so I was able to take better pictures and even looked inside from the open windows. It was very hard not to feel emotional at that moment, but kept my composure. I watched the kids play in the court yard, who were 2-3 years older than I would have been, when I was here in 1963. Once I came outside, the principle was getting rather worried as to where I was, and were in consultation with 4 other teachers, my girlfriend told me afterwards. After I came back to her office, she said, "You know, taking pictures of the school is not allowed". I told her that I had already taken some, but she said nothing.

We then went to the Land Registry Department. Just as the District Office, it was quite chaotic. It is something I have seen while I was sailing to foreign nations, mostly in the Caribbean, to get clearances from government offices long time ago. Now I knew what my lawyer meant, about spending the whole day there, to get information. I basically wanted to track down all the registered land that my Grandfather and Grandmother owned, in the Nicosia District. Upon asking a person this question, she said, “you must go to your village president and get his authorization and then come back”. I told them that, I did not have such person. She said, “Look, go upstairs and talk with this person and gave me a name”. We went to this persons office, and the same instructions were repeated by her. It was time to explain my life story again, so I did. She said, "Look, I'm not suppose to do this and so on” as she started a complete search for me on her computer. We used various spellings, of my Grandparents, to find everything that was owned by them. She wanted to portray herself a tough lady, but I manage to break few crack of smiles out of her, and even laugh at one point. She finally said, "your Grandparents were rich”. They really were not. They were simple people, and lived a village life. She wanted to get my reactions I guess or may have even wanted to carry on a conversation. After she finished all the paperwork, I asked her if I could pay for anything, which she said, "Of course not, it is my job". She even gave me her direct phone number to call her directly at the office, if I had any more questions, or my lawyer. I must say, that her office space was slightly larger than size 12 shoe box, but she was alone in there, as suppose to others, who had many working in them.

Now it was time to get the maps but did not have much success there, because I wanted 16 of them. Again, I went back to the lady upstairs, which she filled out all the forms for me. Every little information she had found in the computer, she wrote it down. Now it was only a matter of paying and receiving the maps, that show where the plots of lands were. They told us, “we close in 30 minutes, so come back tomorrow”. We said that we were on our way to Paphos, so once again, they made extra effort to get the prints made for us, while we grabbed something to eat around the corner. By 2.25PM, we returned and the maps were ready. I could not have asked more from these GC government officials.

We were now on our way to Paphos.



Page 6.


As I already mentioned before, driving in Cyprus was easier than I expected, because of the road conditions and the good road signs. My girlfriend had 2 main responsibility in the car, one was to read the map and secondly to remind me if I was driving on the wrong side of the road! However, I was on my own at times, when she fell asleep, as she normally does as a passenger.

I often heard on the forum just how bad the Cypriot drivers are, so I took out maximum insurance coverage on the rental car. I can thank my good friend Miltiades for that, for putting the fear of God into me. To my surprised, on the average, Cypriots drove very well, obeying all the traffic rules. They would stop at a crossing to allow people to walk across, whenever we needed to. In Limassol, where Miltiades stays, you do get some racing down the road, but again, not that bad.

Having said all that, we did pass a car in the ditch, resting on it's roof on the way to Paphos, and saw 2 other minor accidents live, and a front wheels of a car, dangling over the edge of a cliff, from Paphos to Limassol. I'm sure the driver did not set the hand brake properly, as he was taking pictures of the coast. The drive to Paphos had mixture of landscape, which some parts could have been California. After 2 hours driving, we were in Paphos

Paphos was a nice town. A little bit more laid back I would say. We enjoyed a nice meal that evening at the restaurant "Zambezi", a touch of African Cuisine.

Next day was time to explore the area. We first drove North along the coastal route to Cape Drepano. Lovely little harbour, with fishing boats. Then we drove towards Polis and went to visit the "Baths of Aphrodite/Afrodite". By being in such places and landscapes, made me feel that I was getting more and more in touch of what Cyprus meant to me as a child. I was adjusting more and more, feeling like I was at home and not in a strange country. Often I would say to my girlfriend " You like my country, No"? I was speaking like the gift shop owner in Nicosia. She would reply, "Yes, it is very nice". Of course she had already been to Cyprus, about 12 years earlier.

After drinking Cyprus coffee at Lakki, it was time to visit Polis. We walked in the town centre and soon found a Tourist Information Office. I asked them if we could drive along the coast towards the "TRNC" checkpoint. She was confused with my question, as if to say, as a Cypriot, don't you know!!! She said, " I thought you were a Cypriot", which I went on to tell my life story one more time. Almost of all of our contacts came to be, because I would be asked something in Greek and I would reply, "Sorry, but I do not speak Greek". They would then say, "Oh sorry, you look like a Cypriot" which was a compliment each time, I may add. I would then go from there and explain everything to them. This was a very good way in engaging people in a conversation, rather than a quick answers like "Yes" or "No" and then just walk away. They have all shown interest in me, as I did with the GC's.

She said, "Yes, you can drive all the way to the checkpoint somewhere near Kato Pyrgos, and if we had time, to drive back to Paphos through the Paphos Forest". We took her recommendations and drove back to Paphos through the forest. It was a very slow drive, and thanks for the good road signs, or else, we may still be up there now, trying to find our way out. If you have a 4-wheel drive, you can afford to make a mistake and be on any of the roads up there, but for normal cars, one had to remain on the paved roads. At one point, I believe we came very close to Birkibrisli's village up in the forest, when we came to "Stavros tis Psokas".

We made it back to our hotel, about 2 hours later than planned, so it was time for another feast, so we went to what was to be our favourite Tavern in our whole trip to Cyprus. It is called "7 St. Georges Tavern" in Paphos. George the owner and me got along just fine. We were like father and son with passion for food. We were talking about food as young men talk about sex. I had found my "food soul mate". George brought food from the kitchen for me. That was for his personal use, like sweet breads and kidney. The meats he had cooked were absolutely fantastic. At the end, he brought out a Banana pudding and Lemon pudding. They were just beyond description. He brought me into his kitchen to show me some of his other cooked foods that were being put in a jar, to be preserved. I had to take pictures with him, and I did. I offered to come back and work for him for free, for couple of weeks, in exchange learning his cooking methods. He said anytime I wanted to come, it would be his pleasure. I will take his offer, sooner than later. I need to e-mail him soon, to get the recipes for the puddings, since it was his wife’s.

Next day, it was time to explore Paphos, on our way to next hotel, which was to be in Limassol, so we went to all the Historic and Archaeological sites and places. We then walked through the Turkish sector of the town. Just as the buildings are in Larnaca, they were very much the same here. Mostly old and somewhat run down. Again, I heard Turkish being spoken between a young lady and an older women. There was also a child with them, so I walked over to speak with them. I asked how many TC's lived here, and the response was 50. I asked if they spoke Greek or English, and the answer was "No". I asked how it was living amongst the GC's, and was told me, that they did not have problems. I asked, why they did not go and live in the "TRNC", and the answer was, “they wanted to live in Paphos”, but some family members did live in the “TRNC", and that they visit each other, now and again. I asked if anyone was working in the family, and the older women said that her husband was working with the GC's, and that he spoke Greek. I forgot to ask them, if the kids went to school, and if it was a Turkish school or not.

After lunch and a visit to the Paphos Castle, which I wanted to make it into a home for myself, we headed along the coast to Limassol.




Page 7.


The drive along the coast from Paphos to Limassol on highway B6 was spectacular. I should also add, that the drive from Paphos forest, once out of it, was also very spectacular.

It took about an hour or so drive, to reach the edge of Limassol, but another half hour or so, to get on to the main road, along the coast heading East from the centre. We got ourselves going back and forth with the one ways and small streets, before seeing the sea, to get some reference point, as to where we were. With maps at hand, we headed out towards our hotel, which according to the map was one of the last Hotels on the coast, way East of the centre. It was a busy city, much like Nicosia, but with a view to the sea. We had finally arrived at our hotel and were ready for our meal out.

We went to the first restaurant close to our Hotel. It had few people sitting inside and outside, so we figured it must be OK. There were many restaurants, one after the other, that were "begging" for customers. Soon the musicians came out to play, and after half an hour later, a man an a woman, close to being in their mid 40's, joined in to sing. The "new couple" were good. Actually, they were very good. I do not speak Greek, but I can feel the energy of the music, when it hits you. She had a very serious face, just like the saying, "the look that can kill", but I kept saying to my girlfriend, "God, that look can sink a ship, and if she was on the Titanic, it would have never made it out of the Southampton Harbour"!! But I loved her voice and that face, and I still see it now in front of my eyes, as I'm writing this.

Next day, it was time to explore Limassol. It is a weird kind of a city. Too big to get anywhere on foot really. It had most of the hotels and restaurants at one end of the city for the tourist, and a town centre for the locals, and another area for the shops and public buildings. It had a very nice "Sculpture Park" along the sea front, about half a mile long or so, but there were no sea front cafes or restaurants, so it appeared not to be used very much by too many people. The harbour was only interesting, if you like to look at boats, as I am, but not so interesting to others.

We then went to the Turkish sector of the town. It was in much better condition, than the ones in Larnaca or Paphos. There were many small restaurants and shops. Some shops were shut down. I do not know if they were out of business, or that it was still too early in the season. We then went to visit the covered market place. This was interesting to me, because it reminded me as a child, going to such market in Nicosia before 1963. Everything was sold here, from fresh food and spices, meat and fish, and nuts and sweets. I loved the atmosphere here. I loved picking certain vegetables and feeling their textures. I loved seeing those beautiful Cyprus potatoes. My girlfriend finds it strange and laughs, when I call Cyprus potatoes beautiful. She keeps on saying, it must be a Cypriot thing. In her German Guide book, it is written, that Cypriots talk about food, in the same way that the British talk about the weather!!

As we came out, there were several cafes and restaurants with tables outside. There were tons of people, mostly locals, enjoying their lunch. The smell of food was everywhere. We sat outside at "Petros Cafe". Soon an older man came to wait on us, and asked me something in Greek. I thought, here we go again, with my explanations. He stopped what he was doing and started talking with me about how he wished things would get back to the way it was between the TC's and the GC's. He had a cafe in Famagusta, but had to start all over here. He complained about his son not wanting to take over the business from him later on, pointing him to me, as his son was serving customers. He was 62 years old. For a moment, I felt like I was talking with my good friend Miltiades. He kept saying, oh I must serve other people, but within few minutes he would come back and talk more. I was beginning to see a similar pattern. I was beginning to notice, that the GC's were just as eager to talk to me, as I was with them. It was almost as if, they wanted me to hear their story as well, and I was listening. I felt as if people very "hungry" to tell me their stories. This awareness was to get even more noticeable for the remainder of our time in Cyprus. After shaking hands, we departed. We then visited Limassol's Castle, which was very interesting. It was high enough, to get general sense of the area. There were also couple of mosques in the area also. In the evening, most restaurants were empty with few people in them. However, there were 3 restaurants that were completely full. You always knew which were the good Cypriot restaurants. Mostly it was the Taverns that were full. We could not get in, so we settled for a Cypriot "imitation" Fish Tavern, operated by a British, with Western music over the speakers. We had gotten spoilt listening to Greek Music with most of our meals, but it was already past 10 PM, so our choices were limited.

Next day, we wanted to go the Troodos Mountains and to the Kykkos Monestary and Museum, where Makarios had spent some time as a young man. Learning the lessons from Paphos Forest, that it may take a long time, we fuelled the car, as not to run dry, then we headed up the mountain. My girlfriend, as well as being the navigator, she also reads about interesting places to visit, so the first place to visit, was to be a very small village called "Lania". It was something how I always imagined Cyprus being as a child, except for cars we use to have donkeys. We had our Cyprus Coffees at a small restaurant and headed toward the Monestary, wanting to have dinner back here tonight, if we did not get lost.

The Monestary and the Museum were stunning. It was way up the mountain with fresh air all around. Outside there were many gift shops, but also selling from nuts to preserves. They had all kinds, like the orange peels in syrup like my mother use to make, when we were kids. Then I saw the fresh walnuts in syrup, which I have not tasted close to all my life, since leaving Cyprus. We bought one jar to try it at the hotel. After the Monestary, we headed back to "Lania" arriving around 7 PM. The place we had coffee earlier was still open, so we had our evening meal in a village, which looked and felt like real Cyprus. Back at the hotel, I tried the walnuts in syrup, and they were just as tasty as I always remembered them to be as a child. My girlfriend did not care too much for them. What can I say, she is not a Cypriot!!!

Tomorrow we are on our way to Agia Napa.



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But first, we had to go the other direction, towards to British Base at Akrotiri, to see the plantation area for mostly fruit, and then to the “Agios Nikolaos ton Gaton” or also known as the "Nikolaos the Cat". The "avenue of the Trees" along the plantation was very impressive. It must have been a mile long, with a tunnel like effect of tall trees over the roadway with sunrays shining through the branches. These conditions make driving fun. Soon we were at the "Monestary of the Cats". We saw 2 elderly nuns there, and lots of cats, sitting on the wall or just looking for attention from my girlfriend, which she always gives. I tried to talk to one of the nuns, but did not get much of a response. She finally said, "What do you want"? Before I can answer her, she asked, "where are you from", which I replied, "from here, Cyprus”. Where is your village she asked? I'm from Nicosia, but have been gone for 43 years, and now just returned, I answered. I said, "I'm Turkish Cypriot". She did not respond, just sat there stroking her cat. I got the impression, she was not in a talking mood, so just said goodbye to her and walked away. As we were about to get in the car and drive away, there was a loud noise from jet planes, and within few minutes we could see a squadron of fighter jets. I soon remembered some members talking about the Red Arrows on the forum, and sure enough, it was the Reds. We had a good view of their practice, with a great picture of them, making the Arrow through the Heart smoke trails. Talk about timing.

Now we were on the road to Agia Napa. After stopping for lunch at a small coastal town called "ZYGI", we were fast coming to our next town. I had heard from others, that this place was the "Party Town", but that was not the reason, why we came here, really. It was to relax and take it easy, before returning back to Switzerland. As we drove down the main road into town, it was anything but noisy. As we went to check at our hotel, we thought we were at the wrong place, but the name and address matched. It was under construction with workers and dirt everywhere. Finally, VP was about to claim his victory as in "I told you so, you can't trust the GC's". I walked into the lobby area that looked like a "war zone" from all the construction that was going on. There was someone at the registration desk with dust all over the place. I told her that we had a reservation and upon her calling their sister hotel, we were told that's where we were staying. We have just got an upgrade to 5 stars from 4 stars, for the next 3 days. Not too bad at all, and VP had to wait for another day I'm afraid. I'm not making this up people. VP was mentioned many times on this trip.

After checking in, we strolled along the beach to the Harbour and took a good look at the town. It really did not look that bad at all. I actually began to like it. It was all within easy walk from the hotels to restaurants and entertainment. Soon we were looking for a place to eat. We came to what seem to be popular place. It was the same name as the Cyprus table wine, Ohillios, or something like that. Once again, we were spoken Greek to, and once again, the whole story began. He was a very nice waiter as we talked a little. After the dinner was over, a young foreign waitress brought the dessert menu. It was all to do with ice cream. I asked her, "where is all the good stuff". She looked at me very puzzled. I said, "You know, Cypriot desserts". She said, "One moment please", and came back with the manager. He said, "I think I know what you want", and I said, "Do you have Baklava". He said" I think I can get some". It was already 10 PM, as I saw him leave and return few minutes later, with a bag. Soon I had my Baklava, followed by very sweet white wine, on the house. Once again, they knew I was a TC. Was this just business, or just a little bit more perhaps? ?? Why would he go all the trouble to get me Baklava, at 10 PM. Could it be, because we are all Cypriots, and that when respect is shown, respect is received back. I show respect to everyone who deserve it, but never gotten Baklava at 10 O'clock at night time, brought from outside, by the manager. Make what you want of it, but I was impressed.

Next day, was to explore the area. First we went down to the harbour to check on Boat rides that go along the coast, up far as the “Green Line”, close to Famagusta. We came in touch with a lady, who was selling tickets for next days sail. Due to slow time of the year, the boat "Fantasy" sailed only twice a week, and the lady, who name is "Demi" did her thing to sell us couple of tickets. She said, "If you buy now, I'll throw in lunch for free". That was enough for me, as I was sold in the first few minutes. Remember, Cypriots think about food, as the British think about the weather! Would you believe it, we talked with "Demi" for a whole hour, without selling any more tickets. It was a slow day, so she wanted to keep on talking, once she knew more of me. She was taken back a little, that I, as a TC, would understand her feelings. She said, "you are the first TC I have spoken, that even accepts some of the responsibilities of the problems we have on the island now. The occupation has caused a lot of pain for her. She was only 4 years old, when they had to leave Kyrenia, and growing up, her mother’s wish was to go and see her home before she died. She never made it. She died 3 years before the "Green Line" was opened, so needless to say, "Demi" was bitter with the Occupation and the Turkish Troops there. She goes and visits Kyrenia now and then, which she says, it is the most beautiful city in the world for her. I think it was good for us to talk all these issues. We were to see her again next day, to pay the balance for the trip.

We then got in the car, and went along the coast to Protares. Interesting tourist town. I can imagine getting very noisy there, in the peak season. We then drove to Deryneia to take a closer look at Famagusta. With the open space from here to there, as a buffer zone, once again, it was very depressing for me. All this land and space is just wasted, when it can be utilized by all Cypriots. What a waste. Once again, I was angry to everybody, for not seeing what has become of this small island. What possible good is it to try and divide this small place? I guess greed and power was the answer that I gave myself, as the reasons why. We got away from there, and drove as much as we can, along the "Green Line". I guess I had a certain fascination being close to the other part of my country. Perhaps I was trying to pretend, that there was no division, but I knew there was. We have finally seen lots of Cyprus Potato fields. Don't ask me why, but I was excited seeing them. The truth is, I'm a Potatoes and Bread man.

On the way back to Agia Napa, we gave one more attempt to find this tiny little fishing port called " Potamos". You need to see this little place, to really appreciate its charm. Very small inlet, with small fishing boats on both banks. There must have been 50 fishing boats there. I just loved this place.

In the evening, we went looking for a place to eat at. We came to a place called "Clarabel". It is very close to the Monastery on Makarios Street. It had a lot of people inside, so we sat down. Soon the waitress came and spoke to us in Greek. Once again, I went to tell her who I was. She almost did not seemed too happy, that she would be serving us. As I explained more and more, that we do not live in the North, and I have just returned after so many years, she began to feel more at ease. We ordered our food, a Chateaubriand for a change, which was cooked to perfection. The waitress brought us the wine and kept on talking with us, about her life since leaving Famagusta, during the invasion. She also told a story of her mother, just like "Demi". She said that, after the "Green Line" was opened, she took her mother to see her home in Famagusta, and started crying, once they were there, because what the new residents had done to the place. "They have destroyed and changed everything", the mother said to her, promising never to return again. Let them keep it (TC's), the mother said. They have destroyed everything. Two sad and very hearts felt moving mothers stories in the same day, by two different people. They have both moved me, that's all I can say.

As she got even more comfortable, she would come and add a little bit more about herself. This was a busy restaurant, but she found the time, to come and talk. She was a mother of three, and lived in Deryneia, on the buffer zone, that she was afraid, that the Turks might shoot her one-day. I told her that that would not happen and not to worry about it. How the hell did I know that that would not happen? I really did not, but it was the best advice I could give her, to comfort her.

The meal was great and the service was excellent. As the guidebook said, that if you wanted to have good Cypriot food, go to a restaurant where Cypriots work. What we had was not Cypriot dish, but it was excellent. She stood by the door, to wish us good evening, as we left the restaurant.



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Next day, we are on “Fantasy” along with 60 other passengers heading along the coast towards Famagusta. It was nice and warm, until we turned the corner at Cape Gkreko, and the wind picked up. Actually we were heading into the wind, which gave the "apparent wind speed" to be more than it actually was. Few people threw up, all the same. We got close to the "imaginary Green Line" when it was announced, that the city in the distance was Famagusta and gave a very brief history of the invasion. It was a very mild, as far as the political content went. He did say, that 50% of the island was under occupation, which we all know, are incorrect. On the way back, we anchored for our "free lunch", while others swam. It was crystal clear waters, but still cold. I put my hand into the water, for the first time, since arriving, almost 2 weeks ago. As I said before, we don't go on a holiday, to lie on the beach. That's why they have tanning studios for that!!

Our last day, and we are heading to Nicosia for one last time, to visit the Land Registration Department, to get couple of favours from our very friendly Government employee. Once finished with that, saw my lawyer for a quick last minute talk, and then to the Ledra Palace to meet a Cousin with her husband and their small children. They actually drove from the North, but was easier for us to meet there. The husband suggested that we would follow him to show us his village and have dinner there, because he knows the restaurant there. I have to say, following him was hard for me, because he is a pretty bad driver, with young kids in the car. He had a habit of drifting into other lanes, causing other cars to avoid hitting him. They would on occasions, honk their horn. Anyway, we finally arrive at his village, which I have no idea where we are. He showed me his parent’s house that is occupied by a GC family. It was no bigger than a 2 bedroom. It seemed in good shape. He said, we have some land here, but we have no intentions of ever coming back. I told him, that if there were ever a settlement, he would have to give up the house he was living now in the "TRNC", which was a 5-room house. He said directly in my face, we would never have a settlement. We don't want to come back here. I tried to tell him, that everything was possible, but he was very clear, that Turkey or any of her leaders now or in the future, would never give up Northern Cyprus. I had a feeling of my cousin’s family’s political standings, because the cousin’s sister and her husband, who live in London, have the same view. They are in fact Partitionist.

We went into the restaurant, and the owner gave them and us a "half wave". They knew of my cousin and her husband from before, I guess. The husband went on to say, that in about 15 years, when it becomes 50 years from the invasion, like all court cases, the North would be separate from the South. I don't know what logic he was trying to use, so I said to him, listen, the GC's are not going to walk away from the North, not in 50 years or Hundred. The UN or the EU does not understand any 50-year rule. He said we have many English who sell their properties in the South and buy in the North for half the price, and live off the balance. Do you think England is going to let the Greeks throw these people out, by returning their properties back to Greeks? I was getting a little angry with him, but kept my cool. I told him, that sooner or later, Turkey would need to deal with the Cyprus issue, to get into the EU. He said, look, Turkey and Talat tell the world what they want to hear, but have no intentions for re-uniting. He said, we only voted for the Annan Plan not for Peace. We got much more land in the North than in the South, so we don't want to re-unite.

So I asked him, if there were any more GC land left and he said there was, but all the good places were all gone. His family had bought a lot of Greek land at £20 a Donum 8 years ago, and that each one was worth around £3,000 now. I said to him, that the land his family has in the South is worth more than all the GC land they have in the North, but he was not interested. I told him that it was now illegal to buy and sell GC properties, but he just said, not to worry. He said, worse comes to worse, people just sell up and moves to Turkey. Who's going to touch you there, he claimed. He told me, that if I was interested buying some Greek land, he knows people. I said to him, yes but you already said, that the government was not allowing the sale of GC land anymore. If you want some, it can be arranged. I thanked him, but no thanks I said.

He then went on to say, that the Greeks don't like it when they come down to the South. I said to him, how do you know this. He said, because they honk at me, while I'm driving on the road. I did not have the heart to tell him the real reasons, why they were honking at him. It was great seeing the cousin and the kids, but regretted for meeting them, after all the discussion on the land issues and not wanting to re-unite. We still had another 9 hours before our plane left for home, and we were not too far from Larnaca, but I said we needed to go. I had heard enough, yet from another Partitionist.

On the way to Larnaca, the discussion was about them. It was very clear, that it was not the security concerns, as the Partitionist always bring up. They brought their two young kids with them. How concerned were they really, for their kids’ safety, being in the South. Assimilation was another lie. It is all about land. Those who paid almost nothing to buy tons of land, wanted only Partition, so that they can cash in their chips, or become owners for good, other peoples property. They have corrupted their souls with greed, and living of the flesh of others, just like scavengers. I did not want to believe, this was the motive of the Partitionist. We have a word in Turkish, which I do not know, if it can be translated into English, but it is called "HARAM". It is perhaps the most undesirable word in the Turkish Language. Perhaps Turkish_Cypriot can tell us. I know what it means. It is close to "Blood money or worse" but can be used in different ways. Bottom line is, anyone who steals others property, money, food, from others for themselves, is committing this act of "HARAM", which they will not want to think, that's what they are doing. Well, I'll tell all the Partitionists right now, that if you have bought GC land for your personal gain, at a lost of United Cyprus, at the expense of others, you are committing a crime and may all your gains "HARAM OLSUN". You will all pay with your healths at one point of your lives or your families. It is Gods way in punishing you all. I do not want to hear any more excuses from these bastards about safety or assimilation by the GC's in a United Cyprus. You're all about greed. Don't give me this bullshit, that we said a "Resounding yes to AP”, because that was not for peace but for greed. Piratis is correct, it was a disguised Partition. If you Partitionist want to argue with me on this, you better start telling me the truth, just how much GC land have you stolen, just like Denktash. He stole 30,000 Donums is what "Skipper" said. Corruption starts from top and comes down to the common man. You're all living in a “Corrupt Society” in the North. I'm not talking about the common man, who was given some GC land to live, while there's no peace. I'm talking about those, who brought money with them from abroad, to help themselves with the "BOUNTY" of others land.

After two weeks in Cyprus, which I arrived pretty stressed form all the bullshit scare from the Partitionist, I was now leaving stressed out, yet from another Partitionist, a family member.

I was now ready to go home, back to Switzerland.

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I want to say thank you for all those on the forum, who gave me a lot of advice before leaving for Cyprus....THANK YOU ALL.


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And last but not least by any imagination, I want to give BIG THANK YOU to a very Special Forum Member who was our "Guardian Angel" looking over us, while we were in Cyprus. We were met the first day we were in Cyprus and given a lot of information and materials. This person had our complete travel plans and would check up on us, now and again at various hotels. We had access to this person 24 hours a day, to be reached on this persons' Mobile phone if we needed any assistance. To know we had this assurance, it was a huge weight off our minds. Once again, THANK YOU.



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